Stellenbosch, South Africa
South African wine falls somewhere between the New World and Old World, with an over 300-year history of winemaking. The first South African wines were pressed back in 1659 by Dutch colonists, and more specifically by employees of the Dutch East India Company who quickly realized the need for alcohol at their restocking station in the Western Cape, a major stop halfway between Europe and India during spice trade voyages. Some of the earliest grape varieties believed to be cultivated in the area were Chenin Blanc (referred to as ‘Steen’ locally) and Muscat of Alexandria. Both varieties had the ability to produce sweeter wines that were popular in the era. One of these styles of sweet wine made from Chenin Blanc, called Constantia, was known to be a favorite of Napoleon. For the first few centuries, though, most grapes produced in the area were distilled into brandy. In fact, in the early 1990s up to 70% of grapes grown in South Africa were still being used in brandy production, and much of that brandy was being shipped to Portugal as the higher-alcohol spirit used to fortify their Port wine. Nowadays, over 80% of South African grapes are being grown for wine production, and over 50% of the global supply of Chenin Blanc is still being grown there.
It also wasn’t until the early 1990s that the South African wine industry was able to produce on a global scale. South Africa’s awful policy of racial apartheid was met with trade sanctions by parts of Europe and the United States that prevented South African wine from entering the global market until apartheid was finally abolished in 1994. Since then, South Africa has climbed to being the 8th largest wine producing country in the world, with nearly 325,000 acres of vines in over 2,600 vineyards, with over 500 wine farms (the local term for wineries). The Stellenbosch region is home to more than 200 wine producers and grape growers alone, as South Africa’s largest Wine of Origin area. South Africa’s Wine of Origin is similar to France’s appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) – it’s a geographical wine growing area with specific regulations on how its wines are labeled. This ensures that what you see on the label is true to what is in the bottle.
View from the top of Table Mountain in Cape Town, South Africa. Cape Town is still the most beautiful city, with the most beautiful people, I’ve ever been to, and just outside of the Stellenbosch wine region!
Stellenbosch is situated in an area with an extraordinary geological history and the vineyards here are planted on some seriously old soils (some of the oldest vineyard soils in the world). The granite mountains surrounding the area (including Paarl and Stellenbosch mountains) were formed some 550 million years ago by a massive intrusion of magma beneath the surface that slowly cooled into a mass of granitic rock, called a pluton. Over millions of years, the geologic layers above eventually eroded away, exposing the granite beneath. Periods of erosion, deposition and continental collision created the beautiful landscape seen today, including the great flat-topped sandstone structure, Table Mountain, that dramatically towers over Cape Town. With all this geologic history comes a variety of soils, from granitic to clay and sandstone to shale, and each soil type imparts subtle flavors to the grape varieties planted there.
Stellenbosch currently is best known for producing high quality Cabernet Sauvignon, bursting with black fruit flavors and dark chocolate. Another major grape variety in Stellenbosch, and the biggest grape variety in South Africa, is the aforementioned Chenin Blanc. Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay (a very popular grape in SA), Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are also common to the area.
Chenin Blanc - I always thought the name of this grape sounded so pretty and elegant, so I always assumed it would be a pretty and elegant wine that was maybe just a little out of my reach. I can add that to my list of incorrect assumptions I’ve made about wine! Chenin Blanc is a versatile grape and the flavors can vary depending on the style of winemaking. From fresh, zesty and light bodied to rich and full-bodied, semi-sweet to sweet, to delightfully sparkling, with prices from the bargain bin to out of this world, there’s a Chenin Blanc for everyone! Younger, unoaked Chenin Blancs give aromas of tart fruit, pear and herbs. Oaked Chenin Blanc made with riper grapes could be compared to an oaked Chardonnay, but with floral notes of honeysuckle and orange blossom, sweet fruits and baking spice. So far, I haven’t tasted a Chenin Blanc I don’t like.
With Chenin Blanc’s versatility, it can pair well with a wide variety of foods. Try piri piri chicken (also spelled peri peri), a delicious dish of chicken simmered in a spiced sauce of lemons and onions. This dish originated in Mozambique with Portuguese influence but has become common South African fare, and I think the zesty and tangy sauce on the chicken will pair wonderfully with Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc tastes great paired with sweet and sour dishes and cheeses like triple cream brie, goat cheese and gruyere. Shrimp cocktail, smoked salmon or a nice pate would be great too. For dessert, I think lemon bars would be quite tasty, or an apple or peach pie. Or, just take a trip to Stellenbosch and take in all the flavors and sights (one could dream)!
